Welcome to Part II of  The Sea God Demands an Exorcism

Here’s a quick recap of Part I:

  • Jesse and I are attending a Shamanic ceremony on a South Korean boat.
  • Dance and traditional music greeted us when we boarded.
  • Later, we participated in a prayer ceremony to honor the Dragon King/Sea God.
  • Now, we’re waiting for the main exorcism ritual (called a gut) to begin.

 

Shaman holy men take off their shoes before standing in front of the alter to the Sea God
Shaman holy men take off their shoes before standing in front of the alter to the Sea God

. . .

I strongly suggest reading Part I, if you haven’t already

. . .

Shaman holy men line up during a Jae Sa ceremony
Shaman holy men line up during a Jae Sa ceremony

The Dragon King Controls Everything in the Ocean

If a Shaman fisherman comes home empty-handed, it’s the Dragon King’s doing.

A huge wave capsized your boat? Dragon King!

Someone’s fish store went out of business? Yup; Dragon King.

. . .

So how does a Shamanistic Korean appease this God of the Sea? 

Though prayer, offerings, sacrifice and an exorcism; of course.

 

A Mudang prays to the Dragon King during a gut
A Mudang prays to the Dragon King during a gut

Making Friends Everywhere I Go

While waiting for the exorcism, I was invited to sit between two friendly Pungmul performers who were excited to show off their instruments.

Although we spoke no common language, we soon found a way to communicate through music, smiles and laughter.

 

Playing the horn alongside my new friends
Playing the horn alongside my new friends

 

A traditional Pungmul gong
A traditional Pungmul gong

Gongs, Cameras and a Beautiful Photograph

My favorite moment came when the woman expressed an interest in my camera. Earlier, she taught me how to play her favorite gong. Now, I could share my passion with her.

. . .

After a brief lesson, my new friend began pointing the camera at everything on the boat.

By the time she reached 80x digital zoom, her hands were shaking and the screen was moving in every direction. Yet, she still managed to make this beautiful photograph of a Shaman musician.

 

I love that my new friend managed to take such a beautiful photo despite her hands shaking like crazy while doing so
I love that my new friend managed to take such a beautiful photo despite her hands shaking like crazy while doing so

It’s Exorcism Time

In order to appease the Dragon King, a Mudang (Shaman holy woman) performs a Seohaean Baeyeonsingut exorcism ritual.

During this solemn ceremony, she dances, sings, bangs a gong and offers praise to the Sea God.

 

A Mudang bangs a jing while performing a gut
A Mudang bangs a jing while performing a gut

 

The Mudang’s gong
The Mudang’s gong

 


So That’s What an Exorcism Looks Like?

I was surprised too; but yes.

What about the sacrifice?

After the Mudang finished her chanting, dancing and drumming, Shaman holy men released a severed cow’s head into the ocean as a sacrifice to the Dragon King.

 

Shaman holy men release a severed cow's head into the ocean as a sacrifice to the Dragon King
Shaman holy men release a severed cow’s head into the ocean as a sacrifice to the Dragon King

Float a Boat for Luck

Immediately following the cow’s head sacrifice, Shaman holy men brought out a a beautifully-decorated paper boat.

After a lap carrying it around our ship, the boat was lowered it into the water and floated away.

It was one of the most beautiful parts of the entire ceremony.

 

Shaman holy men carried this paper boat around the actual boat for all to see
Shaman holy men carried this paper boat around the actual boat for all to see

 

The ceremonial boat floats away from our boat
The ceremonial boat floats away from our boat

No More Praying; Let’s Party!

In the few minutes it took for the paper boat to float away, the atmosphere on our boat had completely changed.

Where the Mudang previously had performed her exorcism, there now was a smorgasbord of food and booze being passed out.

Almost immediately, someone handed Jesse and I a huge bowl of strong alcohol; which, we had to drink lest we offend someone.

 

After the party it's the afterparty!
After the party it’s the afterparty!

I won’t lie … the booze made what came next much easier

While guests were stuffing their faces, the Pungmul performers returned to the stage for more dancing, drums and celebrating.

It didn’t take long before our new friends invited us up to join them.

 

Jesse and I bust a move on the boat's dance floor
Jesse and I bust a move on the boat’s dance floor

. . .

Shortly after, a performer strapped his headpiece on my head and hoisted a drum over my shoulder.

Wanna see how it looked? Just hit play…


I get tired just watching that video!

After what seemed like hours but was probably closer to 15 minutes, our boat reached the Yeonggwang-Gun mainland.

A huge round of handshakes and smiles were exchanged before I handed my props back to their owner and said an emotional goodbye to everyone on board.

From the bottom of my heart, I want to thank all of the kind souls who made this one of the most amazing and unforgettable days of my life.

. . .

Here are a few more photos from my day with the Dragon King

 

A closeup of the Nongak's drums, which are called Jang Goo and book in Korean
A closeup of the Nongak’s drums, which are called Jang Goo and book in Korean

 

As the only foreigners on board, every camera spent time photographing us. In fact, it was a photographer who suggested that I sit with the Pungmul performers.
As the only foreigners on board, every camera spent time photographing us. In fact, it was a photographer who suggested that I sit with the Pungmul performers.

 

These are the ships we would have been on, were it not for our affiliation with National Geographic Channel
These are the ships we would have been on, were it not for our affiliation with National Geographic Channel

 

One of the Pungmul musicians and her traditional instrument
One of the Pungmul musicians and her traditional instrument

 

Seohaean Baeyeonsingut exorcism ritual involves a sacrifice to the Dragon King
Seohaean Baeyeonsingut exorcism ritual involves a sacrifice to the Dragon King

 

A gong that the Pangmul band uses
A gong that the Pangmul band uses

 

They gave us some sort of prune wafers to wash down the bowl of hard alcohol. It didn’t help
They gave us some sort of prune wafers to wash down the bowl of hard alcohol. It didn’t help

 

GET LOST IN KOREA


In 2013, I was hired by National Geographic to film a TV show in South Korea … following my adventures as a travel blogger and photographic storyteller.

The single-episode show offered a mix of humor, tradition, adventure and stunning imagery; as I teamed up with Jesse Day: a Canadian entertainer who lives in Seoul and raps in Korean.

Here are the highlights from filming Get Lost in Korea